Ecuador
¨altitude sickness may develop in those who ascend rapidly to altitudes greater than 2500m. Bing physically fit offers no protection. The risks with faster ascents, higher altitudes and greater exertion. Symptoms may include headaches, nausea, vomiting, dizziness, malaise, insomnia and loss of appetite. It can cause swelling of the brain or fluids in the lungs.¨ - Katie made me read this after our recent mountaineering trip but I´ll get back to that later!
South America, Ecuador we made it and are loving it. Quito the capital is great. Locals are helpful, food and beer is cheap and the city offers so much buts lets begin by getting out of the comfort of a big city which caters for tourists and into the heart of this amazing country - the true South American experience.
Our destination was Latacunga and the bus ride was as exciting as the destination. People selling ice creams, nuts, beans, and even buskers not to mention the Andean scenery. Needless to say the trip was very entertaining.
We arrived in Latacunga and made a few mistakes that could have turned pear shape but have now transformed into traveller gossip. Getting off at the wrong bus stop was the first. We were in a rough part of town no tourist here. However we found a Hotel for $2.50 a night each. A little run down but what can you expect for that price. Walking to find dinner we had stares from the local men, who seemed to dominate the population, one of whom was cleaning his pistol.
That night we found out why our room was so cheap. It was the Latacunga brothel. We had little sleep that night listening to men walking up the creaking stairs, the sounds of beds squeaking. ladies moaning, chairs banging, ladies choking and men climaxing. This was followed by peeing and showering, shooting up some drugs, laughing, yelling, etc this happened all bloody night. We were in a situation, no one knew where we were, we couldn´t ring anyone, the streets were not safe so walking was not an option and worst of all our Spanish was not good enough to talk to anyone. An intimidating night but a great travelling lesson.
Thus far on our trip we have spent a fair chunk of time in the Andes including the great indigenous markets and staying with an Indigenous family (by pure luck) at 4000m at a place called Quilotoa. Its a volcano that has been filled by water. Very beautiful and great trekking. Because our high altitude acclimatization had been going so well we decided to have a crack at some mountaineering and climb Cotopaxi. The worlds highest active volcano standing some 5900m above sea level. The ice axe climbing preparation went well as we passed all techniques no worries. We hiked from 4300m to 4800m were we spent the night in a climbers hut. Katie was struggling with the altitude a little but I felt pretty good considering our hight. We woke up at mid night and for me this is were it all went bad. I had not had any sleep, when I got out of my sleeping bag I vomited 4 times until nothing was left to come up and I had a spliting headche. Katie on the other had was feeling really good apart from a slight headache. However, being a stubbin bloke I wan´t to push on. With head torches on and a slight glow form the moon we ascended 300m in an hour to 5000m before donning the crampons and ice axe. During that whole time my condition grew worse with dizziness and more dry reaching and vomiting. The first ice climb on to the glacier was a demanding and required a lot of energy something I didn´t have a lot of.
South America, Ecuador we made it and are loving it. Quito the capital is great. Locals are helpful, food and beer is cheap and the city offers so much buts lets begin by getting out of the comfort of a big city which caters for tourists and into the heart of this amazing country - the true South American experience.
Our destination was Latacunga and the bus ride was as exciting as the destination. People selling ice creams, nuts, beans, and even buskers not to mention the Andean scenery. Needless to say the trip was very entertaining.
We arrived in Latacunga and made a few mistakes that could have turned pear shape but have now transformed into traveller gossip. Getting off at the wrong bus stop was the first. We were in a rough part of town no tourist here. However we found a Hotel for $2.50 a night each. A little run down but what can you expect for that price. Walking to find dinner we had stares from the local men, who seemed to dominate the population, one of whom was cleaning his pistol.
That night we found out why our room was so cheap. It was the Latacunga brothel. We had little sleep that night listening to men walking up the creaking stairs, the sounds of beds squeaking. ladies moaning, chairs banging, ladies choking and men climaxing. This was followed by peeing and showering, shooting up some drugs, laughing, yelling, etc this happened all bloody night. We were in a situation, no one knew where we were, we couldn´t ring anyone, the streets were not safe so walking was not an option and worst of all our Spanish was not good enough to talk to anyone. An intimidating night but a great travelling lesson.
Thus far on our trip we have spent a fair chunk of time in the Andes including the great indigenous markets and staying with an Indigenous family (by pure luck) at 4000m at a place called Quilotoa. Its a volcano that has been filled by water. Very beautiful and great trekking. Because our high altitude acclimatization had been going so well we decided to have a crack at some mountaineering and climb Cotopaxi. The worlds highest active volcano standing some 5900m above sea level. The ice axe climbing preparation went well as we passed all techniques no worries. We hiked from 4300m to 4800m were we spent the night in a climbers hut. Katie was struggling with the altitude a little but I felt pretty good considering our hight. We woke up at mid night and for me this is were it all went bad. I had not had any sleep, when I got out of my sleeping bag I vomited 4 times until nothing was left to come up and I had a spliting headche. Katie on the other had was feeling really good apart from a slight headache. However, being a stubbin bloke I wan´t to push on. With head torches on and a slight glow form the moon we ascended 300m in an hour to 5000m before donning the crampons and ice axe. During that whole time my condition grew worse with dizziness and more dry reaching and vomiting. The first ice climb on to the glacier was a demanding and required a lot of energy something I didn´t have a lot of. 
However, being on the mountain at this time of night was amazing. Very still, cold and inspiring. We continued to ascend for another hour or so to 5200m by this time I had zero enrgy and altitude sickness had got the better of me. We had no choice but to desend. I stumbled a few times on the way down as I was totally out of it. A dangerour thing as we were surrounded by several small crevases. My only comfort was I was roped to Katie and the guide. I feel for Katie as she was feeling good and quite possibly could have made it to the summit so I´m greatly sorry for that babe.I really enjoyed the mountaineering exprience and the mountains have not seen the last of me! Before this trip I knew little of altitude sickness but now know from first hand experience what soroche is all about.
posted by Katie and Joel at 11:35 AM
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